I borrowed some features from squid flies that I thought had great action and added them together to make one pattern. Someone else may have created a similar pattern, but I have yet to see it. If you are out there, say the word, and you will have full credit. I don't steal patterns. Those features are the braid mantle, marabou head, Sili Legs tentacles, hackle “grabbing” tentacles, large stick-on eyes, white/pink/red color, and rabbit strip collar by the hook eye. I like the way the materials breath in the water, making the body compress like a squid using its siphon to get away.

This should be a decent striper and bluefish fly early in the season when squid show up and later in the season when bonito show up. I became interested in squid flies last season while gutting a bonito and finding it full of 3-4" squid. This fly is about 6" long when finished and, while there are a number of steps, it is fairly easy to tie.

Tying Sequence

Step One

Start the thread on the hook shank just past the hook point and wrap as far back to the bend as possible. Tie in 2 long white or pink hackles. These should be opposite one another, so they flare out. They do not have to be perfectly symmetrical or need to look pretty. This view is from above.

Step Two

Tie in 3 strands of Flashabou. I used Flashabou Mirage; use your favorite colors. Cut the Flashabou strands slightly less than twice the length of the hackle and double them back as far against the hackles as possible. (Ed. Note: This means tying the Flashabou in at the half-way point in the material, folding the second half over the first, and then securing the fold with thread.) Again, do the same with the strands of Krystal Flash. In this pattern, I used chartreuse and pearl for colors, but any would be fine.

Step Three

In the same location and pushed tight to the hook bend on top of the other wraps, tie on 3 Sili Legs, and double-back, making a total of 6 tentacles hanging off the head.

 

Step Four

In the same location, tie in the marabou. You can either use the tip of the plumes if you have high quality materials, or, as in my case, strip the marabou off the feather stem and bunch the plumes together. A little goes a long way. Bunch it up and add in two clumps. Tie one clump under the hook shank and another on top to make a nice even application. You can lump it all together and push it around the hook shank with your thumb to even it up if desired. Once these materials have been added, you will have a bulky rear (the head of the squid) built up. This helps taper the body as you go to the next step.

Step Five

Tie in the chenille at the base of the marabou and cover all exposed white thread wraps. Work the thread back toward the hook eye and leave it hanging. Wrap the chenille back from about 1.4” from the hook eye, covering the hook shank back to the marabou. This leaves space for the braid and collar but gives you a decent red- pink, chenille body length. Wrap another layer of the chenille if you think the body is too thin, but it doesn't really matter. None of it will be exposed. It’s just the color tone you want for under the braid mantle in the next step.

Step Six

Use the lighter to lightly singe or melt back the open end of the length of braid, so the fibers do not come apart when handling. Do not melt it into discolored balls at the tips. As with monofilament, just melt it enough to keep its shape. Cut off a piece of braid from the main piece, about one and a half inches. Position the thread at the end of the chenille and slide the un-melted end of the braid onto the hook eye, back to the chenille and over the thread. Tie it on, leaving just the unraveling fibers on the thread and the melted end hanging over the hook eye. Tie off when finished. Dab this joint with super glue and let stand for a few seconds to dry.

Step Seven

Glue the large stick-on eyes at the base of the chenille head. Overlap the marabou a bit, so when it’s folded back, the braid half covers the eye. Now fold back the braid. If your melting was correct (this may take a try or two), it should hold together and not fray at the ends over the eye. Push the wrapped base of the braid back towards the hook bend to form the shape. At this point, you should still have about 1/8 inch left to attach the collar.

Step Eight

The next step is optional. I like the look of the collar, but some don't. Take a zonker strip (either cross-cut or with the length) and tease it up a little with your fingers by rubbing it against the grain of the hairs until they stand up a bit. Start tying the strip in by the hook eye, make a wrap or two depending on how sparse the cut is, and tie it off. Dab this with super glue too. Keep the collar sparse. That’s about it. Although there are a few steps, it’s an easy fly to tie. Good luck!!

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